џWPCL ћџ2BJ|xе*а шT ааашџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ‚аШаСрСУУTyrannusФФС`С=*ее4а шT ааашџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ‚аШа=СрСУУThe Writings of John EvelynФФ4еа шT ааашАаФ И Ќ  ”ˆџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ СрСУУУУT Y R A N N U S,ФФ СрСФФУУOR СрСФФУУT H E M O D E.ФФ РРTwas a witty expression of Malvezzi;жва шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Virgilio, Marquis of Malvezzi (1599Љ1654), Spanish statesman and writer on Tacitus. E possessed his УУOpere Historiche e PoliticheФФ in an edition published c.1650 and bound for him (Lot 961, various pressЉmarks). вж УУi vestimenti negli Animali sono molto sicuri segni della loro natura, negli Huomini del lor cervelloФФ, Garments (sayes he) in animals are infallible signes of their nature; in Men, of their Understanding. Though I would not judge of the Monk by the Hood he wears; or celebrate the humour of JulianРРs Court,жBа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ The imperial court of the Roman emperor Julian II, the Apostate (360Љ3).Bж where the PhilosophicЉMantle made all his Officers appear like so many Conjurors; РРtis worth the observing yet, that the People of Rome left off the Toga, an Antient and Noble Garment, with their power, and that the Vicissitude of their Habite, was little better than a Presage of that of their Fortune. For the Military Saga differencing them little from their Slaves, was no small indication of the declining of their Courage, which shortly followРРd. And I am of opinion that when once we shall see the Venetian Senat quit the gravity of their Vests,жGа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ See K. June 1645 where E comments on their style of dress (de Beer, II, 442).Gж the State it self will not long subsist, without some considerable alteration. ССРРTis not a triviall Remark (which I have some where met with) that when a Nation is able to impose and give laws to the habit of another (as the late Tartars in China) it has (like that of Language) provРРd a Fore-runner of the spreading of their Conquests there; because, as it has something of Magisterial; so it gives them a boldnesse, and an Assurance, which easily introduces them without being taken notice of for Strangers where they come; so as by degrees they insinuate themselves into all those Places where the Mode is taken up, and so much in credit. I am of Opinion, that the Swisse had not been now a Nation, but for the keeping to their prodigious Breeches; and as it was Politickly dissemblРРd of Francis the First,ж0а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Francis I (1515Љ47) of France; see also note 31 below.0ж to flatter this blunt People with the Toy, which for a while he wore, and the Ladies afterward made their PinЉcushions of; so was it again as wise to abandon that Brutish Shape, for a Habit more convenient and Decent. ССNor do I impute it so much to the Levity in that Protean Nation, to Metamorphose themselves so oftРР, as many are Prone to censure; because it is plainly their Interest, and they thrive by it; besides the pleasure of seeing all the World follow them, and to be fond of it. ССBelieve it, УУLa Mode de FranceФФ, is one of the best Returnes which they make, and feeds as many bellies, as it clothes Backs; or else we should not hear of such Armies, and Swarmes of them, as this one City alone maintains, who hang in the Ears, embrace the Necks and elegant Wasts of our fair Ladies, in the likeness of Pendants, Collers, Fans and Peticoats, and the rest of those pretty impediments, without which Heaven and Earth could not subsistЉ ССIt may be thought, I confesse, some mark of Verticityжа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ A tendency to turn (OED).ж that these things are alwayes in fluctuation; but is astж)а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Reading uncertain due to EРРs later markings.)ж constant as the Tide, and no more a fault then in the Moon; especially, since (like hers) the change is profitable, and a Characteristic of their fertil Genius, which is to be busie, Mercurial, and Universal, and like good Prismes, both to multiply and change the Species to a degree so taking, and so gainfull. ССBut, be it thus excusable in the French to alter, and impose the Mode on others, for the reasons deducРРd; РРtis no less a weakness, and a shame in the rest of the World, who have no Dependency on them, to admit them, at least to that degree of Levity as to turn into all their shapes without discrimination; so as when the freak takes our Mounsieurs to appear like so many Farces or JackЊPuddingsжа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ A buffoon or clown (OED).ж on the Stage, all the World should alter shape, and play the PantomimРРs with them. ССMethinks a French Taylor with his Ellжа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ MeasuringЉrod (OED).ж in his hand, looks like the enchantress Circes over the Companions of Ulysses, and changes them into as many formes: One while we are made so loose in our clothes, as if we had alwayes need of the Close-stool,жа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ ChamberЉpot in a box or stool (OED).ж and by and by, appear like so many Malefactors sewРРd up in sacks, as of old they were wont to treat a Parricide, with a Dog, an Ape, and a Serpent:жІа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Referred to in Juvenal, УУSatiresФФ VIII.214. Juvenal omits the dog but the official Roman law including all three is mentioned in JustinianРРs УУDigestФФ XLVIII.9.9.Іж Now must our Breeches do homage to the Roses of our Shoes, and be the next Term so short, as if we had all been Ambassadors to the King of Ammon.жСа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ II УУSamuelФФ X.4 РРWherefore Hanun took DavidРРs servants, and shaved off the one half of their beards, and cut off their garments in the middle, even to their buttocks and sent them away.РРСжа€а ССССУУDimidiasque Nates Gallica palla tegit.ФФжYа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Martial, УУEpigramsФФ I.92.8, РРThe Gallic cloak hides the buttocks and lower quarters.РРYж аа Now we are all twist, and the long Pedo has been taken at distance for a pair of Tongs; and anon all Buttock. One Gallant goРРs so pinchРРd in the Wast, as if he were preparРРd for the Questionжа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Torture.ж of the Fiery-plate in Turky; and anotherРРs so loose in the middle, as if he would turn Insect, or drop in two; now the shorter Wast and Skirts in Pye-crustжWа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ РРPyeРР is an obsolete word for coat: the phrase effectively means РРouter garmentРР.Wж is the Mode; then the Wide-hose, or (which is more shamefull) like NeroРРs УУLacernata AmicaФФ,жQа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Juvenal, УУSatiresФФ I.62. УУlacernata ... amicР%РФФ, РРcloaked lady friendРР.Qж the Man in Coats again; УУMonstrum geminum, de viro fРЇРmina, mox de fРЇРmina virФФ.жOа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Tertullian, РРMonstrous twins, a woman out of a man, soon a man out of a womanРР.Oж So as one that should judge by the appearance, would take us all to be of Kin to the fellow that begs without Armes, or some great Mens Fools. Me thinks we should make water sitting, and since we deny our Sex, learn to handle the distaffe too; Hercules did so when he courted Omphale, and those who sacrificРРd to Ceres put on the pettyЉcoat with much confidence; For a Man cannot say now, as when Lucian scoffРРd at Cinicus,жда шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ РРCinicusРР = УУCynicusФФ (from the Greek РРР+РРРРРРРРРc, РРdoglikeРР), a cynic philosopher Љ LucianРРs scoffing, that the cynics had hair all over their heads and faces but no clothes, is at the type rather than a specific individual. The cynics were notorious for living as vagrants. The section entitled РРFishing for phoniesРР in the Penguin edition of LucianРРs УУSatirical SketchesФФ (trans. Paul Turner) conveniently covers this ground.дж УУQuid tu tandem barbam quidem habes et comam, tunicam non habes?ФФ On the Reverse, All Men now wear coats, and no Beards. O Prodigious Folly!а€а ССССУУFРЇРdius hoc aliquid quandoque audebis amictu.ФФ ССAnd I am even astonishРРd at the scandal of it. ааССWhat shall I then say of this madness! or what rather shall I not say? УУUterque habitus mutandi malus, alter adversus naturam, alter contra salutemФФ, the one of them is so much against Nature, the other against Health: both PrР%Рposterous, both in extreams; so as what Seneca spake of Silk in his dayes,жа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ УУDe BeneficiisФФ VII.9.5.ж may with equal reason be applyРРd to these clothes of ours, if Clothes it be lawfull to name them, УУin quibus nihil est quo defendi aut corpus, aut pudor possitФФ, since there is in them neither covering for our bodies, nor for our shame? ССIt was a fine silken thing which I spied walking thРРother day through WestminsterЉHall, that had as much Ribbon on him as would have plundered six shops, and set up twenty Country Pedlers; all his body was dresРРt like a MayЉpole, or a Tom-a BedlamРРsжBа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ MentallyЉbackward person or lunatic of a type associated with the Hospital of St. Mary, Bethlehem in London. See, for example, John AubreyРРs УУLife of Sir Thomas MoreФФ, РРIt happened one time that a Tom of Bedlam came up to him, and had a Mind to have throwne him from the battlements ...РР (ed. O.L. Dick, 1958, 213).Bж Cap. A Fregatжа шT ааашАмџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Frigate, naval vessel.ж newly riggРРd kept not half such a clatter in a storme, as this Puppets Streamers did when the Wind was in his ShroudРРs; the Motion was Wonderfull to behold, and the Colours were Red, Orange, and Blew, of well gumРРd Sattin, which arguРРd a happy fancy: but so was our Gallant overchargРРd, УУIndutumne an onustum hominem, habere vestem, an bajulareФФ,жа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Tertullian, УУDe PallioФФ, V.21.ж that whether he were clad with this garment, or (as a Porter) only carried it, was not to be resolvРРd. ССI do assure you that I knew a French Woman (who is famous for Her Dexterity and invention) protest, that the English did so torment Her for the Mode, still doubting that She brought them not over the newest edition of it, that She usРРd monethly to devise us new Fancies of her own Head, which were never worn in France, to pacifie her Customers. But this was in the days of Old Noll,ж а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Oliver Cromwell. ж that signal Vertumnus,жа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ God of the changing year (OED).ж when the State it self was as seldome above the age of a Moon without a new face, as the Ladies her faithful DevotaРРs. But I have done with Instances; and whilst I seem to reprove this excess in Men, am so far from disobliging the bright Sex, that it is from hence (Fair Ladies) may justly be derivРРd, the esteem which I make of your discretion in this point, because, what you now wear is so decent, and so becoming: Nor am I of so Morose and so particular a humour, that, with Seleucus,жОа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Presumably Seleucus Nicator, one of Alexander the GreatРРs generals. The reference (from Diodorus Siculus, УУHistoriaФФ XII) comes from MontaigneРРs essay on sumptuary laws, see n. 31 below.Ож I would allow of no Ornaments, or significant changes; for my part, I love Variety, and when I declaim against the ascititiousжа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Supplemental, extra (OED).ж and unnatural, I am Advocate for what is gracefull and put on with reason: But there is a mediocrity in all things, and though Garments be Superficials, and extrinsecal to us, they are yet of such notable presage that if (as Solomon) a Wise Man may be known by his gate, a Fantastick may be no less by his garb and Apparel.ж&а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ E alludes to УУEcclesiasticusФФ XIX.29Љ30.&ж ССThere is a certain УУhonestas in observatione decoriФФ,ж“а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ РРIntegrity in observing propriety.РР The line apparently paraphrases sections of CiceroРРs УУDe OfficiisФФ, I.94ff. See also the note on p. 160.“ж which if men could once light on, would be of Infinite more Reputation to us than this slavish defference of ours to other Nations; and when his Majesty shall fix a standard at Court, there will need no Sumptuary Lawes to represse and reforme the Luxжа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Sumptuous elegance (OED).ж which Men so much condemn in our Apparrel. ССMountaine tells us, that at the Death of King Francis,ж5а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Michel de Montaigne (1522Љ92), Essays I.43, УУOf Sumptuarie LawesФФ. The quotation is correct except that E inexplicably gives Francis I of France (1515Љ47) in error for his son Henri II (1547Љ59) to whose death Montaigne actually refers. But see note 6 above, p. 163, which may have caused E to make the mistake.5ж one years mourning for him in Cloth, made Silk to be so despisРРd that had any Man appearРРd in it for a long time after, he was taken for a Pedant or a Mountebank:жа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Charlatan.ж РMРРMР УУne vestis serica viros fРЇРdaretФФ.жZа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ EРРs note: РРTacitus in УУvita TiberiiФФРР; the correct reference is УУAnnalsФФ II.33.Zж ССDoubtless would the great Persons of England but owne their Nation, and assert themselves as they ought to do, by making choice of some Virile and comely Fashion, which should incline to neither extream, and be constant to it, РРtwould prove of infinite more reputation to us then now that there is nothing fixt, and the Liberty so exorbitant. ССWe deride the Spainiard for his odd shape, not for his Constancy to it: Let it be considered that those who seldom change the Mode of their Country, have as seldom alterРРd their affections to the Prince: Laws are in credit as they are Antient; and the very alteration of Elements, Weather and Dyet, are full of Perill; РРtis that renders us Weak, Old, Sick, and at last destroyes us: So as РРtwas not without advice that the Lawes of Plato did descend to the care even of habits in that his perfect Idea, allowing it only to Curtesans and Comedians to vary Dresses, since РРtwas but a kind of Hippocrisie to be every day in a new Shape and Mascarad.ж№а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ This recommendation is actually MontaigneРРs, not PlatoРРs, and appears in his essay on sumptuary laws (see n. 31 above). Montaigne subsequently refers to another part of PlatoРРs УУLawsФФ (808.C) and this may have deceived EРРs memory.№ж ССУУQuomodo prР%Рcepta Dei custodietisФФ (sayes Tertullian) УУlineamenta corporis non custodientesФФ?ж"а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Tertullian, УУDe Cultu FРЇРminarum.ФФ"ж How can we expect that men should keep the Commandments of God, or of the King, that preserve not the Lineaments of their Bodies? Thus he to the Gallants of his time; and though he doРРs somewhere as ingeniously apologize for the Palliumжа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Tertullian, УУDe PallioФФ.ж (which the proselytes had then newly reassumРРd) by instances deducРРd from the common Vicissitudes of Nature and of the World, yet he proves its Antiquity from the Old Lydians,жIа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ People from a land in Asia Minor, said to be from where the Etruscans had come.Iж and Noble Pelasgi,жVа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ The earliest inhabitants of Greece, who also lived in Asia Minor and parts of central Italy.Vж and from the Decency and Simplicity of the Garb; so as what was then said by way of Sarcasme to the new Christians, a УУToga ad palliumФФ,жЪа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ РРFrom toga to cloakРР, Tertullian, УУDe PallioФФ, taken from Erasmus, УУAdagesФФ, iv.v.45 where Erasmus directs the reader to the Procopius reference below (see the Toronto edition, Vol. 32, p. 314).Ъж may now (with more just reproch) be applied to the old, УУab Equis ad Asinos.ФФж]а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ РРFrom horses to assesРР, Procopius, УУEpistulР%РФФ 36, from Erasmus, УУAdagesФФ i.vii.29.]ж ССFor my part I professe that I delight in a cheerfull Gaiety, affect and Cultivate Variety: The Universe it self were not beautifull to me without it, but, as that is in constant and Uniforme Succession in the natural, where Men do not disturb it; so would I have it also in the Artificial. ССIf the Kings of Mexico changРРd four times a day,жGа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ This is from MontaigneРРs essay on wearing clothes, I.36 (Screech, p. 256).Gж it was but an upper Vest, which they were usРРd to honour some Meritorious Servant with. Let Men change their Habits as oft as they please, so the change be for the better. I would have a Summer Habit and a Winter; for the Spring, and for the Autumne. Something I would indulge to Youth, something to Age, and Humour, УУSed quР%Рnam illac avis est, quae huc cum tunicis advenitФФ ?жа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Plautus, УУPРЇРnulusФФ V.12.15. ж What have we to do with these Forreign Butterflies? In Gods name let the change be our Own, not borrowРРd of others; for why should I dance after a MonsieurРРs Flajoletж;а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Flageolet, a small wind instrument, occasionally with keys (OED).;ж only, that have a set of English Viols for my Consort? We need no French inventions, or for the Stage, or for the Back; we have better Materials for clothes; They, better Taylors. Strange! that Men should come to value themselves from a sort of Wretches, of which Nine go but to the making of one Man. I hope to see the day when all this shall be reformРРd, and when all the World shall receive the Standard from our most Illustrious Prince, and from his Grandees, and make Prognosticks even from those little Accidents and all that is extrinsical to them, that there is a glorious, a steady, and a Wise Director within, and that it shall be as presumptuous for any forreign Nation to impose upon our Court, as it is indeed, ridiculous it should, and its greatest diminution. ССLampridius tells us that Alexander was in this point so nice, that he would have all his Subjects distinguishРРd by their Habit; УУne servi ingenuis miscerenturФФ.жBа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Not Alexander, as E noted on his own copy, but Aelius Lampridius, УУSeverus AlexanderФФ (Emperor УУADФФ 221Љ235) XXVII.1. Ulpian and Paulus, the jurists, objected to this covering the whole population, and in particular slaves. Instead a band of purple of differing widths marked out those of equestrian and senatorial rank.Bж How many times have I saluted the fine Man for the Master, and stood with my hat off to the gay Feather, when I found the Bird to be all this while but a Daw?ж?а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ A fool (OED), derived from РРjackdawРР. E uses the word as a pun.?ж УУarripitur persona, manet resФФ;ж’а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Lucretius, УУDe Rerum NaturaФФ, III.58, correctly УУet eripitur persona, manet resФФ РРthe mask ripped off, the reality remainsРР though the meaning is not affected. Montaigne quotes Lucretius twice only, including this line (УУEssayФФ I.19, see Screech, p. 87). Considering the numerous other borrowings from Montaigne in this tract it seems likely that E obtained the quote from the УУEssaysФФ.’ж A Lyons Skin will not cover an Asses Ears. ССServants had always among the Romans a peculiar Habit, till the CommonЊWealth grew dissolute, sayes Tacitus:ж%а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ УУAnnalsФФ, II.33 again. See n. 33 above.%ж And for my particular, I am so great a Friend to this order, that I could be contented all degrees of Men whatever, had some Badge to distinguish them by. Thus, all Mechanicks should be known by their Cognizance, all Gown-Men, and all the Military. How would this conduce to publick Frugality, Peace, Humility! and, if to any Emulation, to that only of exceeding one another in Vertue and Obedience: For it is Prodigious only to consider the impolitick Wast which this promiscuous Bravery draws along with it: That no lesse then two Millions of Treasure (as I am informРРd) has in so short a time been lost in Gold and Silver Lace; and that to feed this sole exorbitance, the Goldsmiths should give so considerable a rate for Bullion above the Mint, to imploy it in this trifling Fabric, which is plainly consumРРd, worn out, and never returnes again, so as in a few Years to endanger an Universal Penurie. ССLet us suppose that the finest Cloth of Wooll, and which may be made thin, light, and glossie for Summer; Thick, and more substantial for the Winter, and inferiour to no covering under Heaven, were more in use and esteem: Or, that there were a general prohibition, that persons beneath such a degree, should wear either Silk, foreign Stuffs, or Cloth, with a reasonable Tassaжа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ A levy.ж imposРРd by the Magistrate upon the price of our own manifacture amongst us; How would this bring down the rates of those exotick impertinences, how many thousand hands imploy! how glorious be to our Prince, when he should behold all his Subjects clad with the Production of his own Country, and the People Universally inrichРРd, whilst the Species that we now consume in Lace, or export for forreign Silkes, and more unserviceable Stuffs, would by this means be all savРРd, and the whole Nation knit as one to the heart of their Soveraign, as to a Provident and Indulgent Father! If Riches, and Plenty, with the Love and prosperity of a People, be the glory of a Prince, and the Nerves of a State: if all other considerations be noyse and empty shadows ministring only to Lux,ж а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ See n. 30 above. ж and the Vanity of a few Young insignificant Triflers, whose brains are as Transparent as their Clothes; what are those Arts which a Prince should cultivate, but by exorcising these Apparitions and FantosmeРРs of a Court and Country, to procure the establishment of what is Material and most perfective of those solid blessings. With what facility this is effected, our illustrous CУУHARLESФФ will one day shew his contemporary Monarchs, by provision of such Sumptuary and other wholsome Lawes for the Publick, and making such a Collection of Vertuous persons to dispense them, that as his Court shall become the universal Idea for the rest of the Princes to reform by, so shall his People and the whole Nation become the envy of the World for their felicity. ССWere I the Censor for regulation of this excess, I should recommend the Best and most commodious Habit; and Calculate for the several Meridians and Degrees of the Wearer. There may be much said (I confess) concerning custom, and opinion, which render all things supportable; but we in this Nation can plead neither of these for our Fantastical and often changes: the very frequency of altering the Mode, contradicts the Custome of being addicted to One, and so we are constant, only by being inconstant, which is allowable in the weaker, becomes not the Viriler Sex; РРtwas yet not ill observРРd of Sr. Philip Sidneyжwа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Sir Philip Sidney (1554Љ86), soldier, statesman and poet (DNB). The observation does not occur in SidneyРРs poetical works.wж that Ladies, though they were Naturally affraid of a Sword, were yet soonest in love with the men of Iron, whose shape is the most unalterable of all the Metals, and the noblest emblem of constancy. ССBehold we one of our Silken Camelionsжа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Chameleon.ж and aery Gallants making his addresses to his Mistress, and you would sometimes think yourself in the country of the Amazons, for it is not possible to say which is the more woman of the two Coated SardanapaulusРРs.жа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Luxuriously effeminate (OED).ж But how may we remedy this? shall we descend to some particulars? ССI would choose the loose Riding Coat, which is now the Mode, and the Hoseж6а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ In this context means breeches; but can also mean stockings.6ж which his Majesty often wears; or some fashion not so pinching as to need a Shooing-horn with the Dons, nor so exorbitant as the Pantaloons, which are a kind of Hermaphrodite and of neither Sex: and if at any time I fancyРРd them wider, or more open at the knees for the Summer, it should be with a mediocrity, and not to set in plaits as if I were supported with a pair of Ionic pillars, or the gatherings of my Grannamsж8а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Grandmother. Both EРРs natural grandmothers died before he was born so he is probably referring to Mrs Jane Newton (1575Љ1650), his maternal stepЉgrandmother with whom he spent most of his childhood despite her remarriage following his grandfatherРРs death. She had presumably continued to wear Elizabethan dress. 8ж loose Gown. I would neither have my Dublet or my Skirts so short as if I were one of Sir John Mandivils Dobys,жЂа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ This is a УУdhobiФФ, or Indian washerman, described by Sir John Mandeville (d. 1372) who compiled a travelogue of journeys in the Middle East and India (OED and DNB).Ђж whose eyes and mouthes are in their shoulders and breasts; nor again so long, as to act Francatripe in the Farce.жˆа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ E could be referring to a performance which he had seen in Paris between 1646 and 1651. But the first postЉRestoration report of a foreign company playing in London is by Pepys for 30 August 1661 (around the time E will have been composing this tract) , when he saw a French farce which he thought РРill doneРР (see the Latham and Matthews edition for that date). There is no indication that E saw them at this time though he will surely have heard about them; the character may or may not have been in their repertoire. On 16 December 1661 E did watch a РРFrench comedyРР, nine days after presenting this tract to the King (de Beer, III, 306). ˆж I would not conceal the shape of a goodly leg under a Hoop and Canopy, because some bow-leggРРd Monsieur would disguise his deformity to the reproch of Nature. Are our Knees, like Esops Pots, affraid of meeting, because of the same frail Metal? I am neither fond of the round Shoe, nor of the long, but for that which best fits my foot, and is most easie; and had rather have my Lastж&а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ FootЉshaped tool on which a shoe is made up.&ж a little too wide, then to make it a Case for my Almanack, which I will sooner wear in my pocket then in my shoes. Slender feet are for the Queens of China, and for those who delight to be awakРРd by the Corn-cutter. I like the Noble Buskin for the Legs, and the Boucle better than the formal Rose; and had rather see a glittering stone to hasp it there, than the long cross hilted knots now worn; because РРtis more glorious, and like that Manucodiataжза шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ BirdЉofЉparadise plume. Note that Waldstein УУinter aliaФФ observed a bird of paradise in Elizabeth IРРs bedroom at Windsor in 1603 (УУThe Diary of Baron WaldsteinФФ, ed., by G.W. Groos, London, 1981, 141 and note).зж which Queen Elizabeth tyed there at an Audience of a Moscovite Embassadour (who had stuck one in his Hat), shews a kind of contempt of Riches. ССThe Wisest and most Healthy of the Antients went continually bareЉheaded; so Massinissa, CР%Рsar, so Hannibal usРРd to go;жJа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ This is from MontaigneРРs essay on wearing clothes, I.36 (Screech, p. 254Љ55).Jж But when I must be coverРРd, I infinitely prefer the Buchingamo or Monteroж2а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Spanish hunterРРs cap, with crown and earЉflaps (OED).2ж lately reformРРd, before any other whatever, because it is most manly, useful and steady. I have heard say that when a Turk would execrate one that displeases him, he wishes him as unstable as a Christians Hat; and in effect РРtis observРРd that no man can so plant it on another mans head but the Owner doРРs immediately alter it, nor is it ever certain: All that can be replyРРd in its behalf, is, that it Shades the Face: but so would a Tuft of Feathers in the Montero, which is light and serviceable when the sun is hot; and at other times Ornamental. ССI would neither have my Band so Voluminous as a Frokinsжа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Dutch woman or child (OED).ж Nightraile,жа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ DressingЉgown (OED).ж nor yet so strait and scanty as a NegroРРs coller; in Short, I wish any thing might supply it that were not made of Hemp: and for that piece of Wainscot which supports it about our necks, if it be too high, the man looks as if he were impallРРd; if too low, as if the Dublet were borrowРРd; at least I wish that part were defended with something less rigid than Past-bord; and if the Cravet did still succeed it, there would be no misse of the other. To cover all with two words: I like the Stately and easy Vest within Doors, and the Cloak without. ССIn summe, I affect whatever is comely, and of use, and to that I would be constant, choosing nothing that should be Capricious, nothing that were singular, and therefore have made this Collection out of all; for seeing we are obligРРd to none, we injure none, and since there is so much variety, our choice is the Freer. Mode is a Tyrant, and we may cast of his Government without impeachment to our Loyalty: But if we will rather expect (and which I most Approve of) the injunction of our Superiours for this Regulation also, we shall do wisely, and best avoid the censure. Those who followРРd the great Alexander indeed held their necks awry, because he most inclinРРd it to one side;жЇа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Although the anecdote comes from Plutarch, УУMoraliaФФ 53D, EРРs wording makes it likely that he found it in MontaigneРРs essay on high rank, III.7 (Screech, p. 1042).Їж and when his Father PhilipжBа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ Philip II of Macedon (ruled 359Љ336 УУBCФФ). The anecdote is untraced.Bж wore a fillet about his forehead for a wound which he had receivРРd, all the Court came abroad with the like till the cure was compleat: But we have a Prince whose shape is elegant and perfect to admiration; so as I know not whither there was ever upon the Throne, a Personage who had lesse need of Art to render him more graceful, and whose Mineжа шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ = Mien, bearing or manner (OED).ж makes all things to become him, and therefore certainly (of all the Princes of Europe) the most fit to give the Standard now to the Mode we next expect, and that not only to his own Nation, but to all the World besides. СрСУУF I N I S.ФФж*а шT ааашАџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџџшааŠ EРРs handЉwritten note at the end: РРNote that this was publishРРd 2 years before the Vest, Cravatt, Gartar & bouckles came to be the fashion, & therfor might haply give occasion to the change thУУtФФ ensued in those very particulars.РР See also K. 18 October 1666, p. 178 (de Beer, III, 465).*ж